It is once said that the reason why man faces danger and scales mountains – like Oracion and Emata’s Everest conquest – is simply because they’re there. It is probably because of that reason why in the afternoon of March 21, Viernes Santo, we stood in awe at a canyon’s dead-end inside the crater of Mount Isarog.
Caption: POST-CLIMB picture with Tiyong Elyo at Aroro Chapel. Front row: Ding Santos and Renee Dy-Cok. Second Row: Magic Reyta, Jane Rafael, Carmela de los Santos and Bernadette Pagulayan, this writer, Ramir Doblon and organizer Renee Abiada. Last row: Johmar Cortero, Melo Reyta and Ricardo Buenviaje. Not in photo is Peanuts dela Cruz, who took this shot.
I was with a team of mountain trekkers from Naga, composed of our organizer Renee Abiada, Melo Reyta and his son Magic, Peanuts dela Cruz, Renee Dy-Cok, Ramir Doblon, and Ricardo Buenviaje. Joining us were Manila-based trekkers: Johmar Cortero, Ding Santos, Jane Rafael, Carmela delos Santos, and Bernadette Pagulayan. We were equipped with basic gears and a DENR permit to explore Isarog – and commune with nature -- for the period March 20 to 22.
Thrills and Challenges
We left Naga at 7:30 AM on March 20. After about a two-hour travel aboard a hired jeepney, we finally reached Barangay Aroro (now San Pedro), a remote barangay of Goa, Camarines Sur at the eastern slope of Isarog. The road from Pinaglabanan was quite rough as the driver slowly negotiated his way through the sea of stones and boulders. The groaning of the engine and the bumpy ride made me wonder whether we could ever reach our jump-off point. Luckily, we did.
After a short prayer and picture-taking near the barangay chapel, we started our trek to Sitio Apog at 9:30 AM. Our goal then was to reach the house of one named Rogelio Labayo, fondly called “Tiyong Elyo”, who was to be our mountain guide.
By noon, after passing through corn crop plantation and battling through the sun’s scorching heat, we finally reached Tiyong Elyo’s house about 680 meters above sea level. From there, the real challenge began.
We descended into the gully of Isarog. Going through the labyrinthine womb of this dormant volcano, Tiyong Elyo led us through it, equipped with only a bolo and clad in an ordinary t-shirt, pants and slippers! By now, the environment had transitioned from hot to cool as we entered what appeared to be an undisturbed lowland forest.
We climbed steep hills and ravines, anchoring ourselves to roots, vines, and whatever we could grab or hold on to secure our safe ascent and descent. There was a point in our journey when we were forced to hang dangerously down the side of a cliff for little less than two hours to cross a waterfall. Upon trekking through the forest, we found ourselves more often on the waters of Rangas River system than on dry land.
During our travel, we usually found ourselves at the mercy of three great terrors of the jungle which the natives referred to as “langatong”, “limatok” and “hamtik”. Limatok, or land leech, were not too big a problem unless they found their way into one’s ears or nose. The hamtik, the jungle’s gigantic version of the common household ant, packed a big bit but the pain only lasts for a few minutes. One thing to watch out for would be the langatong. The langatong was a plant whose leaves left a terrible itch and horrible burning sensation that lasts for days. Of course, there were other terrors to watch out for, such as the countless unnamed plants that sported shard thorns and razor-sharp leaves.
Waterfalls and Mystery
On the second day of the adventure, we came across two waterfalls – the Magragubdob and the Nahulugan Busog. The first is within Goa territory; the second, in Tinambac town, in a place called Minaligos.
Magragubdob Falls (720 masl) looked grand and majestic. Located in an open area, this 50-meter high waterfall creates “ragubdob” (roaring sound) that can be heard from a distance. One will enjoy its cool mists while basking under the sun.
About a kilometer away and deeper into the womb of Isarog was another natural wonder to behold -- the Nahulugan Busog Falls (746 masl).
Nahulugan Busog Falls, according to Tiyo Elyo, took its name from a story in the olden days about an Aeta hunter whose pana or busog (bow and arrow) accidentally fell into the waterfall. Since then, the natives would refer to the waterfall as nahulugan busog, or where the bow and arrow had fallen.
Taller than Magragubdob, Nahulugan Busog Falls is a two-tiered waterfall, buttressed by solid, cathedral-like, moss-covered rock wall. At its head, the canopy prevents sunlight from regularly reaching the waterfall basins, giving the place a mysterious aura.
Somehow, the word “enigmatic” managed to escape my lips when asked what I thought about the view of this rarely-acknowledged waterfall. It was actually quite a challenge to describe in one word its grandeur where other known Isarog waterfalls such as Malabsay, Nabuntulan and Tumaguiti paled in comparison.
Our amazement was shortened that afternoon of March 21, when heavy rain poured so suddenly. We never expected it to happen as the sky was clear just a few minutes earlier. It was then I remembered what Tiyong Elyo has warned prior to reaching the place: do not shout or make noise before the waterfall as it will bring rain!
Fantastic Stories
On our first day of trekking, while still ascending through the Isarog slope, we chanced upon a dark-skinned native resting under a Balete tree near a spring. The man, in his fifties, was not only friendly but superbly amusing. He regaled us with interesting folklore stories among other things while we were eating lunch.
He told us about a long, giant snake they called irago (others call it tandayag) that they allegedly saw stranded on a creek, motionless but still alive. According to him, it was so large that one would not see one’s companion on the other side of the snake’s body. He emphasized, “garo plato an pagkadakula kan mata!” (Its eyes are as big as plates!). He pointed from one tree to another to illustrate the supposed length of the irago, which I estimated to be 100 meters. He added that when the snake breathes or sneezes, the leaves of the plants in front of its face would move and sway. We remained speechless as he continued to tell us that he and his neighbors specifically avoided passing in front of the snake’s head as they feared getting sucked into its open mouth when it inhales. We felt relieved that his neighbors did not kill the irago as he suggested and chop it up with a chainsaw. We were more relieved when he told us that the irago finally moved out when the creek got flooded after a downpour that lasted for days.
He also told us of the existence of naglalayog na bulawan (flying gold cache) that for many years have eluded treasure hunters. Pointing to a certain direction in Isarog, across a hill and deep down a gorge, he told us without batting an eyelash that the gold would sometimes visit that area and light it up on a moonless night. He added that when people would try to get it, “an naglalayog na bulawan, nabalyo sa Tangcong Vaca” (The flying gold cache would fly to Tangcong Vaca), pointing to the Caramoan peninsula, which was visible from where we were. To end his story, he uttered, “seguro buhay an karibay kun makua an bulawan” (Maybe the only way to get the gold is to pay with your life.)
His stories did not seem to end there, as he was still keen on talking even as we bade him goodbye. As we went, I saw his face, quite elated. I surmised that he felt good after we listened to his stories.
Still excited about the irago story, I asked Tiyong Elyo to confirm what we had just heard. But with a smile, he sighed and claimed: “Bako man arog kaidto kadakula. Su mata garo man lang ngiwi kan baso.” (It’s not that big. The eyes are just as big as the mouth of a drinking glass.) Even, with the eyes as big as that of a drinking glass, the size of irago would still be enormous; its body must be as big, if not bigger, than that of a mature crocodile. Nevertheless, I felt content that the size of the snake had been reduced to a more realistic level.
Return to Civilization
On our third day, we were homebound. The return trek was faster. What used to be a two-day trek up Isarog, we covered the same distance in just one day. Leaving our second base camp at 7:30AM near Nahulugan Busog Falls, we all reached the barangay chapel of San Pedro at 4:30PM.
Using an improvised sugkod (walking stick or staff), I had to slow down and kept my own pace going down the mountain slope, as the muscles on my right leg hurt. I was the last man out of the woods but thank God, I survived the challenge of Mt. Isarog.
The journey through Mt. Isarog was yet another experience of a lifetime. It was like a glimpse inside the soul of the fragile mountain of Isarog, and a sort of litmus test for man versus the wild, whose level of difficulty eclipsed that of going to its summit.
But, despite the captivating beauty of Mount Isarog, and the thrills and challenges it brings, and the folklore of its people, I swear I shall think twice before going to visit Nahulugan Busog Falls again. It’s quite risky especially for a polio victim like me.
